Puppy

Puppy Wellness

       Congratulations on the new addition to your family!  Puppies are a lot of fun and tend to grow up too quickly.  Enjoy this stage while it lasts and be sure to take lots of pictures.  One way to strengthen the bond you have begun to develop with your new puppy is to ensure that we are able to provide the proper veterinary care they need at this crucial stage in their life.

        We recommend bringing your puppy in for their first veterinary visit when they are about 8 weeks old.  At that time we will start their vaccine series.  Puppies need vaccine boosters every 3-4 weeks until they are 16-18 weeks old.  When they are born, they have maternal antibodies to protect them.  As these antibodies wear off, we need to make sure each puppy is protected from disease by vaccinating them at the proper intervals.  It is also important to bring in a fecal sample to check for internal parasites.  We can choose the proper dewormer depending on the parasite found.  At your first visit we will send you home with monthly heartworm and intestinal parasite control.  The following topics are ones we will discuss with you at your monthly visits:

• Appropriate vaccines for your puppy
• Heartworm disease and prevention
• Internal parasites such as roundworms, hookworms, whipworms and more
• External parasites such as fleas and ticks
• Obedience training and house breaking
• Proper nutrition
• Spay or neuter
• Dental Care
• Microchips

Vaccinations

        We vaccinate most puppies for Distemper, Parvovirus, Hepatitis, Parainfluenza, and Leptospirosis with a 5 in 1 combination vaccine.  The Corona Virus vaccine is also available to those owners who are interested.  The first Rabies vaccine is given after 12 weeks old and it lasts for 1 year.  Each additional Rabies vaccine given lasts 3 years and is required by the government in order to license your pet.

         The Bordatella (or Kennel Cough) vaccine is highly recommended if your dog will be coming in contact with any other dogs.  This includes going to the groomer, boarding facility, obedience class, pet store or dog park. We also recommend the Lymes vaccine for those dogs that will be exposed to tick-infested areas.  If your dog is a breed more prone to developing periodontal disease, we may suggest vaccinating them with the P3 vaccine.  This will reduce the amount of bacteria present in your pet's mouth and therefore slow the progression of the disease.  Common breeds effected are: Yorkies, Maltese, Shih Tzu's, Bichons, Schnauzers, and Greyhounds.

Heartworm Disease and Prevention

        Heartworm disease is transmitted through mosquitoes.  Once a mosquito bites an infected dog, it ingests the heartworm larva called microfilaria.  These larvae mature for a couple weeks and then are passed on to another dog when the mosquito takes a blood meal.  Over the next 6 months the microfilaria migrate from the skin, through the tissues and then develop into adult worms in the heart and major arteries of the lungs.  Dogs can have numerous 20-30 cm long heartworms living in their hearts.  Common symptoms of heartworm disease include coughing, exercise intolerance, weight loss, difficulty breathing, pneumonia and more.  After heartworms are diagnosed, there is a treatment available, but it is costly and is associated with risks, including death, as the worms die off. 

        The good news is that this disease is PREVENTABLE!  Starting at 6 weeks of age, by giving your puppy heartworm preventative year-round, you can ensure that they do not contract this possibly fatal disease.  Once your puppy is at least 6 months old we recommend yearly heartworm testing.  Our office provides several different options for prevention:

1. Sentinel - a monthly chewable dewormer tablet for heartworms, roundworms, hookworms, whipworms and fleas.
2. Interceptor - a monthly chewable dewormer tablet for heartworms, roundworms, hookworms and whipworms.
3. Revolution - a monthly topical liquid for heartworms, fleas, ticks, ear mites, and scabies.

Internal Parasites:

     It's important to check your puppy as soon as possible for intestinal parasites to prevent environmental contamination.  We recommend you bring in a fresh stool sample (no more than 12 hours old) on your puppy's first visit.  All we need is a walnut-size piece of feces.  Our fecal flotation will check for a number of parasites including:

1. Roundworms - spaghetti-like worms that live in the small intestine and cause pot-belly appearance, diarrhea, vomiting and weight loss.  They are passed from mother to puppy during pregnancy or through nursing.  They can also be transferred from fecal-oral contamination.  Roundworms can be passed to humans, especially children.  Picking up stools as soon as possible will lower the egg numbers in the environment decreasing the chance of re-contamination.
2. Hookworms - worms that eat away at the lining of the small intestines causing bloody diarrhea and weight loss.  They are transmitted through fecal-oral contamination or from skin penetration. Humans can be infected as well, causing skin lesions usually found on feet.
3. Whipworms - long, thin worms that live in the small intestines causing diarrhea, anemia and anorexia.  These eggs, passed in your pet's stool, can live in your yard for years, causing your dog to re-infest themselves. 
   
4. Coccidia - an intestinal parasite that is usually found in stressed or immuno-compromised dogs or cats, especially young ones.
   
5. Giardia - an intestinal parasite that is usually found in water sources such as ponds, streams, rivers and lakes.  It also causes diarrhea.

        Depending on which parasites we find in your pet's stool sample, we will either give them a dewormer at their appointment and/or send dewormer home to be given at specified dates.  We always recommend rechecking a stool sample at the end of treatment to make sure the parasites are gone.  If your puppy has tested negative for internal parasites and is given year-round monthly Interceptor, Sentinel or Revolution purchased at our office, any treatment needed for future infestations of heartworms, roundworms, hookworms, whipworms, or fleas is paid for and guaranteed by the company.

Flea and Tick Prevention

        Fleas are an external parasite that are one of the most common in dogs.  They rapidly reproduce causing populations to invade your house in a matter of weeks.  Fleas can be very irritating to your puppy’s skin but can also bite humans as well.  Prevention is the easiest way to control fleas.  Treatment is very expensive and takes months.  
        We recommend a couple products for flea prevention and treatment.  Sentinel, the monthly heartworm/parasite control tablet, contains a product that prevent the fleas from reproducing and thus eventually killing off future populations. Frontline Plus topical treatment kills flea eggs, larva and adults.  Both products are given on a monthly basis.
        Ticks are becoming more common in Michigan. They are found in fields or wooded areas, especially where deer are prevalent.  Dogs pick them up on their fur when they walk by foliage inhabited by ticks.  The ticks then bite the skin and suck the dog’s blood until they are fully engorged.  
        We recommend Frontline Plus topical treatment which controls fleas and ticks.  It lasts for 30 days and is waterproof.

Microchipping

        We offer microchipping or permanent identification of dogs or cats through AVID.  Microchipping is a great way to be able to track your pet in case they were ever to get lost.  A chip about the size of a grain of rice is administered under the skin through a needle, very similar to giving a vaccine.  This chip contains a specific number that is only given to your pet.  The information is scanned with a special device that instantly reads the number.  Almost every veterinary clinic and animal shelter has a scanner and readily use them to scan found pets.  They can call the company and look up the number in their database.  Your pet is registered under your name, a friend or family member of your choice and our clinic.  This provides peace of mind in case you ever lose your pet.  We can do microchipping at any time, but especially recommend it while your puppy is sedated for it’s spay or neuter.


Spay or Neuter

        We highly recommend getting your puppy spayed (female) or neutered (male) when they are between the ages of 4-6 months old.  For smaller breeds it is best to wait until they are closer to 6 months of age.  This allows us to remove any retained baby teeth that might still be in their mouths.  Spaying and neutering is recommended because it decreases the chance of many medical problems in the future.   Breeding a female causes a lot of stress to their bodies. 
        The pregnancy and whelping might not go as planned and C-sections are very common.  Females are more likely to have mammory cancer if they are allowed to go through a heat cycle.  They can also develop very dangerous uterine infections which are only treated through spaying them and providing supportive therapy.  Males can develop prostate or urinary problems if they aren’t neutered.  Both males and females that have not been spayed or neutered tend to wander,  more often hit by cars, and can have behavioral problems. 
        Both surgeries are very safe and are performed Monday through Friday at our hospital.  They are checked in for surgery in the morning and sent home the same afternoon/evening with specific instructions and proper pain control.  Recovery time is usually 5-7 days depending on the age of your pet.  We would be happy to answer any other questions you may have about spaying or neutering your puppy.  Please don’t hesitate to ask.

Training

        Working on training your puppy right away is a great idea.  Waiting until they develop a problem will only make it harder to correct.  One of the most important things you can teach your dog is to pay attention to you.  Start by rewarding eye contact with you by giving treats.  This way, when your puppy is stressed in certain situations, you can get his or her attention and give them something else to do such as sit or lay down. Puppies, whether big or small, should know how to properly walk on a leash.  They need to come when called. They should be used to being handled: get them used to being brushed, trim their nails, look in their ears, hold them tight and then give them praise for being good and not wiggly.  This will make it easier for them and us when they come for their veterinary appointments. 
        House training should be worked on immediately by positively rewarding your puppy when they urinate or defecate outside.  Remember to always give your puppy praise or a treat immediately after they do their duty outside, not when they come inside.  Otherwise they think they are being rewarded for coming in the house.  House training is different for every puppy.  Some learn quicker than others, but through patience and consistency your efforts will be rewarded.
        Obedience classes are a great way to begin training and socializing your new puppy.  Most basic courses begin with teaching proper puppy behavior and basic commands such as sit, down, heel, off, come, wait, etc.  We recommend that your puppy be vaccinated for Kennel Cough (aka Bordatella) before they start classes. Some trainers also require the Rabies vaccine (after 12 weeks of age).  We recommend the following trainers in our area:
                                       Mike Humphrey   785-8254
                                       Mary Beth Toure  887-5180
                                       Sharon Podleski    895-6749       

Nutrition

        Your puppy should be fed a good quality puppy food until they are about 8-12 months old.  We recommend Science Diet, Iams, and Eukanuba.  These foods provide the appropriate nutrients in the right balance without any extra “fillers”.  Another additional benefit of feeding a good quality food is that you don’t feed them as much (cheaper for you) and your puppy produces less stools. Puppies need extra protein and calories to support their body’s growing needs.  Ideally, puppies that are over 50 lbs should be fed a large breed formula.  This provides them with the lower amount of calcium for their larger bones and allows for a slower steady growth so they don’t have any developmental problems.    
        Your bag of puppy food should have a starting guideline for how much to feed, but it is best to feed your puppy based on what he looks like.  A dog in good weight should have easy to feel ribs but not easy to see.  They should also have a waistline and a tummy tuck.  If your puppy is looking too thin, increase his food slightly or vice versa.  Ideally you should feed your puppy 2-3 small meals a day instead of giving him free access to it.  This way you control and know how much they are eating.  Always using a measuring cup when you feed your puppy will help you figure out how much you are feeding and will help us adjust that amount when needed.
        When we determine your dog is ready to switch to adult food you should always switch their diet slowly.  Adding in a small amount of new food and decreasing the proportional amount of the old food over 7-10 days will decrease the chance of developing any stomach upset or diarrhea. 
        Please feel free to ask any of our staff members to help you determine if your puppy is in a proper weight and what food and amount is best for them.
        Online Resources:
                  www.hillspet.com
                  www.eukanuba.com
                  www.iams.com
                  www.purina.com

Dental Care

         Dental disease is one of the most common problems with dogs.  Prevention is the key   Just like it is important for us to brush our teeth and see the dentist, it is also just as important for your puppy.  Every puppy should be introduced to tooth brushing as soon as possible.  Get them used to having you handle their head and then putting your fingers in their mouth.  Eventually you can introduce a toothbrush and toothpaste.  You should use specially formulated toothpaste with enzymes from a veterinarian - never use human toothpaste.  Daily brushing is ideal to prevent the progression of dental disease.  There are also oral gels and chews that can be used but brushing is still the best way.